Pages

Showing posts with label Techniques. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Techniques. Show all posts

Thursday, April 3, 2014

Acid Malt vs Lactic Acid Solution

The actual lactic acid content of Acidulated malt, is ~2% (by weight).

The rule of thumb is for each 45.5kg (100lb) of grain, 1% or 455g (1lb) Acid malt will drop mash pH 0.1.  The actual amount of lactic acid present on 455g of Acid malt would be 455g x 2% = 9.1g.

To use a 88% solution for a similar quantity of lactic acid, you would need (9.1g/.88) 10.34g of solution.  At a density of 1.21g/cc, 10.34g/1.21, amounts to 8.54ml/45.5kg

For beers without roasted malts, the HomeBrewTalk "water primer" recommends your grist include 2% Acid malt.

For 45.5kg of grain, 2*8.54ml = 17.08ml lactic acid solution or 0.38ml/kg.  At the recommended dosage, a typical 8.5kg grist would include  170g of Acid malt or about 3.25ml of lactic acid solution.

Source: 

Update:

Using the noted calculations, I mashed 8kg of Weyermann Pale Ale Malt and 0.5kg of Domestic Flaked Barley with 3.25ml of lactic acid.  The water:grist ratio was 1.3qt/lb.  Important note, my baseline city water is extremely soft.  Also, the CaC03 alkalinity is below 35ppm (~28).  It's great water to build on.  I treated the entire volume of hot liquor (50l) with 12 grams Gypsum and 8.4 grams of Calcium Chloride, the resulting mash pH was 5.6 @ room temperature.    An additional 2ml of lactic acid, total 5.25ml in the mash, resulted in the idea room temperature pH of 5.4.  I actually took a reading at mash temperature as well, hard on the meter I am told, the pH read 5.1-5.2.


Monday, March 31, 2014

Summer On My Mind

A lot of Hops
A freezer full of hops, sacks of malt,  empty carboys and a fresh culture of  ESB yeast sets up well for a "summer strength" American Pale Ale.  The goal? Aromatic, well balanced, light to medium bodied American style ale with serious pulling power.

The grist is simple; Pale Ale Malt, Flaked Barley and Crystal 40 to the tune of 1.050.  The plan is to mash just the Flaked Barley and Pale Ale Malt @ 150F for 60 minutes before adding the Crystal 40 during Vorlauf.
 
230 grams of aroma/late/dry hops (~1.5lb/bbl) will be divided:

  • 20% (45g) Cascade @ 20 minutes remaining in boil
  • 50% (115g) Simcoe/Galaxy @ Whirlpool (30 minutes)
  • 30% (70g) Galaxy split between two carboys, 35g each.

I'll add an additional bittering hop, probably Columbus or Chinook @ 60 to hit 35 IBU's (Tinseth).  To better estimate the final bitterness, whirlpool hops are entered to my brewing software as a 5 minute addition. I have found this to be a reasonable estimation of their bitterness contribution.

To dial in my water profile, I'll treat the entire 60 litres of brewing liquor with lactic acid to a room temperature pH of 5.4.  Then add 2 tsp of Calcium Chloride, 3 tsp of Gypsum and a campden tablet.  This should yield an appropriate mash pH with a final Calcium concentration of ~ 100ppm.



Sunday, March 16, 2014

Thursday, October 3, 2013

Short & Heavy "Special" APA

WLP090 - Pitch +87hrs
Brewed 40 liters of APA yesterday.  I've been trying to use up stock and therefore I'm running light on malt; however, the freezer is well stocked with hops.  To borrow a term from British brewers, with respect to gravity or strength of ale, this is going to be a "Special" strength American Pale Ale.

Base was a mix of Domestic 2-row and Pils combined with a decent portion of Vienna.  Weyermann CaraFoam and some CaraMunich for colour and body.  The **CaraMunich was added late in the mash, during the mash-out, one of a few changes I made to my brew process.  The idea here is to introduce less variables to the mash and thus stabilize the pH resulting in a more predictable wort.

Rather than treating the mash with salts, I simply treated the entire volume of brewing liquor with Lactic Acid to a pH of ~ 5.50 as calculated with the sparge water acidification tool in Bru'n Water.  I then added Calcium Chloride and Calcium Sulfate to the boil for a desired flavour profile and calcium content.

Since I was brewing 40 liters, a decent water to grain ratio can quickly fill my 36qt MLT.  This meant that I was not able to add all my sparge water at once as I normally would with smaller batches. What I decided was to begin draining the second running, then when the water level had dropped slightly, add the remaining sparge water.  A cross between batch and fly sparging.  Didn't seem to impact my mash efficiency at all.

Beyond the tight working conditions of my MLT, the only other issues encountered were a slightly low temperature on the sparge water (got caught making dinner).  The mash and mash-out were a perfect though, 152/168F.  I had two minor boil overs, once before the first hop addition, the second just after the 20 minute addition.  These stops and starts reduced my anticipated boil off and dropped the *OG a point or two.  Finally, during the last 15 minutes of the boil, while recirculating boiling wort through my pump and lines to sanitize everything, I guess some thermo protection switch kicked in and the pump stopped working.  Once the wort had chilled considerably, the pump resumed function.  I feel the risk of infection is minimal since it did get about 10 minutes of contact time with boiling wort.

I've started using Yeastex, a nutrient.  Not sure if it does anything but I figured it's cheap insurance since I tend to re-pitch yeast often.  For this particular beer, I did a split batch, one half receiving 250ml of 3rd gen, BRY-97 - American West Coast Ale Yeast.  This was harvested from a Blonde Ale the previous day.  The other half received a fresh 1L starter of WLP090 -San Diego Super Yeast.   As of pitch +7.5hrs, the BRY-97 had a light krausen covering the surface.  No action on the WLP090.

Here's the recipe...

Short & Heavy Special APA

OG 1.047*/ IBU 40/ SRM 5/ 40L
BRY-97 West Coast Ale Yeast/WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast

42% Domestic 2-Row
33% Pilsner Malt
16% Vienna
5% CaraFoam
4% **CaraMunich I (38L)

15g (13 IBU) Columbus @ 60m
40/20g Centennial/Simcoe @ 20m
40/20g Simcoe/Amarillo, 1/2 @ 5m, 1/2 @ 1m

Dryhop (Keg)
***40/15/5g Centennial/Simcoe/Amarillo

***Amount specified is per keg/19L

Update - Pitch +20hrs

BRY-97 was quick out the gates, the krausen continues to slowly build.  WLP090 was slower off the get go but has exploded filling the entire 4L headspace with krausen.

Update - Pitch +32hrs

BRY-97 krausen now stands at ~2".  From what I've seen in the past, this is pretty much high krausen.  The San Diego Super WLP090 krausen has started to fall slightly.  Very quick!  Wort temperatures holding steady @ 20c

Update - Pitch +63hrs

Both krausens have fallen to a light layer covering the surface of each fermenter.

Update - Pitch +72hrs

Krausen on WLP090 has completely fallen, STC controller set to 22c.

Update - Pitch +87hrs

Sample pulled from each fermenter, BRY-97 @ 1.012, WLP090 @ 1.011.  WLP090 sample very clear already!

Update - Pitch +13 days

Move BRY-97 to ambient and WLP090 to the keg.  Added Dry hops to the WLP090.  Will DH @ ambient for 3 days before moving keg to serving fridge.

Update - Pitch +16 days

Moved WLP090 to the serving fridge.  Set pressure to 30psi.

Monday, September 9, 2013

LowTech IPA v4 - Whirlpool Hopping

1st Year Centennial Hops
A run of the mill American IPA with hop additions at 60 minutes and flame-out/whirlpool only.  Inspired by the Avery recipes for Homebrewers, I really wanted to find out what kind of bittering, flavour and aroma I could get out of my whirlpool setup.

Brewday wasn't smooth at all.  I missed my target mash temperature (or so I thought) of 65c/149F.  Turns out the calibration on my thermometer is off once again and my attempts to correct, what I thought to be a low mash temperature, were unneeded.

During the correction attempts, I depleted the water reserved for sparging.  Since I don't use a sight glass, I rely on accurate strike and sparge water measurements to correctly predict final volumes into the primary (x-in, y-out).  I didn't want to mess up my pre-measured water and opted to not replace the sparge water (used for mash temp correction as noted above).  Since I didn't rinse the grains as well as I would have liked, the resulting pre-boil SG was lower than anticipated.  I increase the boil time and strength slightly but still fell short of the desired OG (1.055 vs 1.059) and volume (22L vs 23L).

A cam-lock fitting and adapter was added to my MLT.  The intent was to recirculate the wort through a pump and back over top of the grain bed to improve run-off clarity.  Well, the electric leads on the pump must be poorly connected because the power would cut in and out intermittently.  A frustrating experience.  Troubleshooting lead to loss of temperature and wort.  Given these issues, I thought it prudent to conduct a starch conversion test which proved successful.  Apparently, it's really hard to mess up a mash although I gave it my best shot!  To cap it off, I forgot to treat the strike water with Campden.  If I have band-aid beer, I'll know why...

So, what does the recipe look like?

LowTech IPA v4

OG 1.059/ IBU ~75/ SRM ~ 5/ ~23L

84.0% OiO Domestic 2-Row
16.0% Gambrinus Vienna

30g of Columbus @ 60 minutes
120g of Cascade @ whirlpool (IBU's calculated as a 15m addition)
I plan to dry hop with a mix of Centennial, Columbus and Chinook.

BRY-97 America West Coast Ale Yeast (used 1x, making this the 2nd pitch)

I treated my mash water with 3ml of 88% Lactic Acid, 4g of Gypsum, 3.4g of Calcium Chloride and 4.5g of Epsom Salt.  EZWater projected a room temp mash pH of 5.41.  Sparge water was treated with Campden to remove Chloramine from the municipal water.  8g's of additional Gypsum added to the boil. Whirlfloc @ 5m to help precipitate cold break proteins.  Final water numbers: Ca 100, Cl 50, S04 250

At flame-out, the pump/whirlpool was started and 120g of Cascade dumped into the near boiling wort.  The intent was to whirlpool (hot) for 20m but in going with the theme of the brewday... I was distracted when a neighbour popped by for a visit, misread my timer and started the chill water @ 10m (10 minutes too early).  As a result, the flame-out hops had half the hot wort contact time than I would have liked.  After an additional 10m, the whirlpool was shut down and the chiller continued to drop the temperature to around 25c.  At this point the BK was drained to my fermenter.

The primary was placed into the fermentation chamber, STC-1000 set for 17c.  Once at 17c, the wort was well aerated with a Fizz-x for 2-3 minutes before pitching 250ml of cold, compacted BRY-97 slurry.  Based on the age of the yeast (claimed Aug 1, 33% viability), Mr Malty recommends 200ml of slurry.  I didn't use a starter.   STC-1000 controller raised to 18c/~65F where I plan to ferment for 1 day at full krausen before ramping to 20c/68F through completion.

If this beer turns out, I am not to blame.  Ha!

Update Sept. 9th

Light krausen @ 24hrs, full krausen inside 36hrs.  Wort temperature peaking at 18.2c before the freezer drops it back to 17.5c.

Update Sept. 10th

The IPA has been at full krausen for 24hrs, fermentation controller set to allow IPA to free rise to 20c.  Attempted to top crop the krausen/yeast

Update Sept. 11th

Temperatures rose rather quickly.  At 11pm last evening the controller was reading 19.5c.  Today it continues to hover around 20c.  I top cropped the yeast a final time, collecting a total of 200ml of slurry.  I placed my sanitized hydrometer into the pail and it sits at 1.030, would have thought it would have been further along?  Perhaps something to do with the lag time after pitch and the fact the yeast had been sitting in the fridge for a month.

Update Sept 15th

Moved to secondary @ ambient, added dry hops

Update Sept 22nd

Moved back to freezer to crash cool to 1c,  FG measures 1.010.

Update Sept 24th

Racked to keg, added an additional 30g of homegrown whole leaf nugget hops.

Monday, July 22, 2013

SMaSH Series

Chinook/OiO SMaSH
After the 120L brew weekend, I've noted some discrepancies in my efficiency numbers, both to the kettle as well as the fermenter. To better dial in my system, a series of Single Malt and Single hop beers would be suitable.  The series will feature English hops and Maris Otter.  I have a fresh, unopened sack of MO and the following English hops at my disposal:


  • Bramling Cross
  • Challenger
  • East Kent Goldings
  • Stryian Goldings
  • Target
  • Northern Brewer

The idea will be to use the same amount of malt (4kg) to produce the same volume for consecutive brews.  Ensuring I measure out my water volumes accurately as well as follow the same mashing/sparging/boiling routine, the resulting gravity should be within a point from beer to beer.  I am mainly interested in the sum of all part, aka the "Brewhouse Efficiency"




Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Brewery Update - Coming Soon!

I've been brewing with a cooler MLT for a number of years.  I am on my third cooler, it's worse for wear and is in need of another replacement.  After BSB 2013, I was very intrigued by a 2 vessel setup which, by my calculations, I could put in play with very little capital costs.  Basically, I already have the 2nd vessel and would simply need to build a new mash manifold.

The technique is continuously recirculating, no sparge brewing.
Two vessels, one upper, one lower.
The upper is your MLT, the lower is you HLT and Boil Kettle.

  • To brew, you would fill the lower HLT/BK with the entire amount of brewing water (liquor).
  • I would fire a propane burner on this lower vessel to bring the water to strike temperature.
  • While heating to strike temperature, I would recirculate the water via pump up to my MLT and then gravity feed the hot water back to the HLT.  This would serve to pre-heat the MLT.
  • Once the water reaches strike temperature, the MLT gravity feed to shut off, a portion the hot water is pumped to the MLT to achieve the desired grist to water ratio.  Pump is shut off.
  • Mash is full, water remains in the HLT.
  • Mash is stirred.
  • MLT and HLT valves are opened once more, pump goes on and we recirculate, drawing the entire volume of water through the mash over the course of the hour.
  • Propane burner is fired on the HLT through-out the mash to maintain desired mash temperatures.
  • At the end of the mash the HLT valve and pump is shut off and the MLT is allowed to drain completely.  We now have our pre-boil volume in the HTL (now BK).
Possible complications

  1. Equalizing flow between the MLT and the HLT.  You want to maintain a level of water on top of the grist throughout the entire duration of the mash.
  2. Regulating the propane burner flame to maintain mash temperatures throughout the entire mash.
  3. Possibility of lower mash extraction efficiency
Possible benefits

  1. Smaller brewery footprint
  2. Eliminating cooler from the brewery
  3. No sparge means a shorter brewday
  4. No sparge is said to improve the quality of malt flavours
  5. No chance of tannin extraction from over sparging
  6. Mash pH stability


Update June 4th

I built my new manifold from CPVC and ported my 2nd vessel (MLT) which is the 36qt Turkey Fryer aluminum pot.  I also ported the lid to fit the return feed from my HLT (50L Keggle).

Update June 5th

New MLT and manifold tests completed successfully.  I'd like to give the new system a go this weekend.

Update June 9th


Before brewing, I adjusted my grain mill loosening the crush.  I'd estimate the mill gap is now .040 (previously 0.036).  It looks perfect to me.  New crush tested with malted barley, malted wheat and even malted rye, all seem to crack well.  Minimal husk shedding on the malted barley.

Began the brew by heating the HLT to 60c then started recirculating the hot water through the MLT to pre-heat.  Once temperatures hit 66c, I doughed in.   Almost immediately began recirculating the mash and remaining HLT water (forgetting to vorlauf) and continued to heat the HLT until the mashed temperatures stabilized @ 66c at which point the heat was shut off.   The mash recirculated for 45 minutes.  Three times I fired the HLT briefly (1-2 min), over low heat, to retain a mash temperature of 66c.   The MLT itself might benefit from some type of insulation  in the future.  After 45 min, the HLT was fired over medium heat (still recirculating) raising temperatures to 76c  for mash-out.  Collected 30L pre-boil volume.

Managing the flows of both the MLT and HLT proved to be challenging.  Once during the mash the fluid  dropped below the grain.  I corrected by shutting off the flow from the MLT and continued pumping from the HLT.  Next time I will run the pump wide open and manage flow exiting the MLT.   The good news is the new manifold and crush seem to be lautering very well!

In my brewing software I guessed the new system's brewhouse efficiency @ 70%, I wasn't far off @ 68% with a mash efficiency @ 70% (~26ppg).

I really like the temperature control over the mash.  In the future I may experiment with conducting a more traditional mash and waiting for starch conversion before beginning the re-circulation this may help to improve efficiency a touch.  I suspect the flow rates at which the mash and HLT exchange might also play a role in the systems efficiency. 

Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Hop Schedules (Revisited)

Almost a year ago I wrote an article on hopping schedules and I've stayed true to form on most of my original recipes since.  Lately however, I've been reading about new (or new to me) methods which have some pretty wild claims.  I'd like to revisit my previous article on the subject and provide some feedback on these new techniques based on some personal experiences.

(Hop Stands)

Touted as the equivalent to a commerical brewery's "whirlpool" addition, many homebrewers have been adding copious amounts of hops at the end of their boils in an attempt to mimic the hop character found in their favorite, hop forward ales.  Truth be told, I've always been underwhelmed with these additions in my homebrew creations.  I have never been able to achieve acceptable hop aroma from this addition alone.  I've always felt the late hops have been wasted to some degree.  Question is, why do commercial whirlpool hops give such killer aroma and flavour but my addition does little?  The answer is time and volume.

Many homebrewers, including myself, follow a flame-out routine something like - flame off, hops in, chiller on.  Given the standard batch size and chilling equipment, our wort temperatures drop to below 140F in 5-10 minutes, pitching temperature in under 30 minutes.  When dealing with commercial volumes, chilling this fast is near impossible.  So, is the aforementioned flame-out routine really all that similar to a commercial whirlpool?  No, not really.  A commercial whirlpool can last 10 minutes or more before centrifugal force does its thing clears the wort from break and hops.  The spinning wort is allowed to slow and is then  finally pulled through a chiller on-route to the fermentation tanks.  Remember, they're not dealing with a measly 10 gallons, we're talking several hundred if not thousands.  An hour or more might pass during these transfers, all the while whirlpool hops are exposed to hot wort.

While reading Northern Brewer's discussion board a few months ago, I stumbled across a discussion on Hop Stands.  The idea is rather simple.  Add your flame-out hops and allow them to steep in the hot wort for an extended period of time before beginning the chill.  On the surface it would seem reasonable that this step would more accurately mimic the commercial whirlpool.  Read the thread and you will find varying opinions on how to correctly perform a hop stand.  Some advocate lowering the temperature of the wort slightly before adding the flame-out hops to ward of DMS.  Others suggest the lower wort temperatures will minimize the amount of hop oils flashed off.  Certain hop oil will flash off at 100F, which would explain why Dry-hopping is so effective.  Most agree the longer the hops are steeped, the better (infection risk be damned!), some advocating as long as 80 minutes!  Well, I'll tell you, this better be some damn awesome aroma to warranty extending the brewday by 1.5hrs.

Having performed a hop stand now on two separate brews, I can tell you that I haven't been impressed.  I actually feel the aroma may be diminished! Certainly not worth the extra time.  There could be a number of explanations for my failure, first and foremost, what does the hop stand do to my early and middle additions?  An addition at 60 minutes will have stayed in the wort for near 2.5hrs.  Your 15 minute flavour addition may now impart more bittering type qualities.  The Northern Brewer discussion talks about shifting these additions to later in the boil.  I don't know... the unpredictability of variables introduced by the hop stand, not to mention the extra time and diminishing returns, far out way the benefits.  In fact, I've started thinking about my final addition and believe I might go in the opposite direction, increasing the boil time slightly and chilling as quickly as possible.  I mean, why not embrace the advantages of the home brewery?  We can chill and rack wort in less than 30 minutes!  This type of efficiency must certainly be the envy of the commercial brewer.

(1-3 minutes)

I read a cooking analogy and thought it very appropriate.  Hops are the spice of beer.  When cooking, many spices must be heated or simmered to bring out aromatic scents (oils).  With cooking in mind, perhaps the key to aroma is to quickly boil the hops, flashing the oils.  The boiling action will further aid to solubilize the oil into the wort, once complete we quickly chill to below flash temperature, thus locking in the flavour?

"Hop Oil Flashpoints 
Farnesene = 79F
Myrcene = 104F
Humulene = 110.2F
Caryophyllene = 200F"

(30 minutes)

In my previous article, I more or less completely wrote off the 30 minute addition as a supplementary bittering addition and some what redundant.  Lately however, I've come across discussion on hop Glycosides, Polyphenols and the benefits.  Warning, lots of scientific stuff!  To summerize

"The main effect of polyphenols on flavour stability isprobably situated in the mashing and wort boiling steps(Liegeois et al., 2000; Mikyska et al., 2002). In particular,polyphenols extracted from hop during wort boilingsignificantly contribute to the reducing power andeffectively diminish the nonenal potential of wort (Lermusieau,Liegeois, & Collin, 2001). Sensory experiments(Mikyska et al., 2002) also confirm the positive effects ofhop polyphenols, during brewing, on flavour stability.."
Further reading has described the benefits as a roundness of flavour, body, and general hop character.  It's agreed among many experienced brewers that the 30 minute addition is best to promote these mysterious reactions.

For the next few beers I am going with a 60-30-12-3 hopping schedule and will report back on how they turn out. 

Monday, March 25, 2013

"Short Brew" Experiment

Wheels are turning on a little experiment I'd like to try, perhaps even this week.

Test
  1. 3 Gallon stove-top BIAB 
  2. <30 minute mash.  (iodine test @ 20 min through conversion).
  3. Full volume Boil for 30 minutes
  4. Simple 1.045 OG, Best Bitter recipe
Risks
  • Incomplete starch conversion
  • Insufficient hot break, protein coagulation, leading to various off flavours and cosmetic defects.  
  • Dimethylsulfide (DMS)

Thinking I'll follow this up with a quick fermentation schedule, primary straight to keg.  Bump carb and serve in under 10 days.

Thursday, March 21, 2013

"BIAB" Mashing

So you're thinking about homebrewing but feel the cost of malt extracts to be somewhat exorbitant?  Perhaps you're not quite ready to lay-out the cash on a Mash Tun, propane burner and large stock pot?  The All Grain, Brew in a Bag (BIAB) method is for you!

I use this method for small batch stove top brewing in the dead of winter.  It can be adapted to larger scale volumes as well.  My first ever batch of beer was BIAB.  Equipment required?


  1. Paint strainer bag from your local hardware store
  2. Couple of your larger kitchen pots
  3. A wire mesh strainer/collender


Now source of the ingredients for your All Grain batch of beer.  Keep it simple.  Some base malt, a touch of crystal malt and you favorite hop.  You'll need a packet of dry yeast as well.  When you order your malt, make sure you have it milled.

Line pot with paint strainer bag.




Fill pot with full volume of water and heat to strike temperature



Pour crushed grain into bag/water, stir well.  Cover pot and let sit for 1 hr



Lift out bag with "spent" grain inside, place into strainer basket over top of pot


Let drain well.  Pour hot water over grain bag until you pot is full of wort





...Continue on with your typical boil/hopping/cooling routine.




You might also consider a BIAB mash to create wort for starters!  Much cheaper than Malt extract.  You can either hop the wort and drink the beer, or perhaps leave un-hopped for exclusive starter use.  For the later, you might even consider not doing the full 60 minute boil.  Maybe 20 minutes would be sufficient...  just a thought.

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

New Equipment!

Draft Lager coming soon to the Low Tech Brewery!


Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Volume Measurements - They are Important

Got together with a few gents yesterday and whipped up a batch of IPA.  Columbus, Centennial and Cascade took center stage.  The beer was suppose to clock in at 1.067 with a IBU rating of about 60.  Turns out, I collected too much and boiled too little, I ended with a gravity of 1.058-1.059.  Not sure what this has done to me hop utilization numbers but I imagine the end result will be a touch more bitter than intended.  My brew software puts me at 63 IBU or a BU:GU of 1.06

During my original calculations, I anticipated a 85% mash efficiency and a pre-boil volume of 31L.  I  actually collected between 32-33L, (my 34L boil kettle was full!) and the mash extraction efficiency was slightly lower, 81%.   In regards to the lower mash efficiency, I used a different base malt which had a slightly lower extraction (36 ppg vs 37 ppg) which alone may have accounted for a 1- 2pt loss on my final gravity numbers.









Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Techniques - Reusing Yeast



Being a cheap bugger, I am a big fan of (re)pitching/reusing yeast.  It's something I've practiced since the time I began brewing.  I've tried just dumping new wort onto a yeast cake from a previous batch; however, after reading this thread on Homebrewtalk.com, going forward I'll be utilizing a more measured approach.  I would highly recommend giving the first post a read, it's very informative.

Referencing "Bob's" information (noted above), I've simplified the (re)pitching rates for my brew system as follows:

"Industry” pitching rule:  1 million cells  x  1ml  x 1˚ Plato"
Example:  25L @ 12 ˚ Plato (1.048) = 1,00,000 cells x 25,000ml x 12˚ Plato = 300 Billion Cells 

Pitching Rates for 25L:

●        10˚ Plato (1.040) = 250ml slurry
●        12˚ Plato (1.048) = 300ml slurry
●        14˚ Plato (1.057) = 350ml slurry
●        16˚ Plato (1.065) = 400ml slurry
●        18˚ Plato (1.074) = 450ml slurry
●        20˚ Plato (1.083) = 500ml slurry

Note, online yeast calculators (YeastCalc, Mr Malty) actually recommend a slightly lower pitching rate for ales,  750k cells  x  1ml  x 1˚ Plato

To-date, I've only used dry yeast (or yeast harvested from bottle conditioned beers).  I finally ordered some liquid yeast which I hope I can use as a sort of" house strain", WLP007, White Labs Dry English Ale Yeast

The yeast has been described as follows:

"Clean, highly flocculent, and highly attenuative yeast. This yeast is similar to WLP002 in flavor profile, but is 10% more attenuative. This eliminates the residual sweetness, and makes the yeast well suited for high gravity ales. It is also reaches terminal gravity quickly. 80% attenuation will be reached even with 10% ABV beers.  
Attenuation: 70-80% 
Flocculation: Medium to High 
Optimum fermentation temperature: 65-70°F 
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium-High "

Having finally dropped the goods on a liquid strain, I began researching various reusing, re-pitching, harvesting techniques to prolong my meager investment.  Having purchased two vials, I hope to brew an entire years worth of beer from this yeast!  I stumbled across this thread which talks about "Splitting Starters".

Essentially, you make a large starter, more than what's required for the batch you intend to brew.  You reserve a portion of this starter for a future starter, the remaining content is pitched to your batch.  This process is repeated for each subsequent stater.

The problem I saw with this method is that to retain enough viable yeast for a future starter, I pegged this amount at 100B cells, you would not leave yourself with enough yeast for your current batch.  I determined that in the context of a 2L starter, reserving 700ml (100B cells), the remaining 1300ml would not contain enough cells (in my 25L system) to properly meet the pitching rate defined above.  To do so meant I would need to step-up this 1300ml with a second quantity of wort.  Based on this theory, I summarized...

1 vial of White Labs liquid yeast = 100B cells
100B cells into a 2L starter = 310B cells (YeastCalc) =  155M cells/1ml
700ml x 155M = 108.5B Cells (reserve for future starter)
1,300ml x 155M = 201.5B Cells (pitch/step for current batch)

Step-up amounts (25L Batch Size):

●        0ml = 201.5B cells ( < 1.043)
●        500ml = 240B cells (1.044 to 1.051)
●        750ml = 289B cells 1.052 to 1.063)
●        1L =  330B cells (1.063 to 1.072)
●        1.5L = 397B cells (1.073 to 1.088)
●        2L = 453B cells ( 1.089+)

For example, in the event I would brew a 1.060 beer, I would build a 2L starter, split and then step-up the 1300ml portion with an additional 750ml of wort.

Going forward I plan to combine the two techniques.  I will build and split starters for low gravity beers which require a minimal step-up.  For larger gravity beers (ie 1.060+), I will harvest slurry after primary fermentation and re-pitch.  The best of both worlds!

FYI, Yeast cell counts and step amount were calculated using: YeastCalc

Monday, May 21, 2012

Grain Storage


I blow through my base malt at a good clip, I don't worry too much about it going soft or stale.  For the special malts, I've found my local baker is a fantastic source for free icing pails which happen to come in sizes perfect for 1/8 or quarter sack storage.


Thursday, May 17, 2012

FAIL - "Humulous Galaxy IPA"


You never really here about the failed recipes.  I have a few and thought I'd share some of my brewing disasters.

I picked up a half pound of this wonderful new, somewhat rare, hop called "Galaxy".  I got an idea to brew my first ever IPA using nothing but these Galaxy hops... all of them.  The result was a dirty, not quite pale muddy brown ale with no hop bite, burning alcohol warmth and an after-taste of mushroomed candy.  Nasty!

Ingredients/Mistakes
I've deleted the recipe from my brew software long ago, I recall using OiO Canadian 2-row, Light Munich, Crystal 110 and Chocolate Malts to the tune of almost 8% ABV.  Approximately 1.078 OG.  More IIPA territory now that I think of it.  In hindsight, the grain bill was far too complex for an IPA.  It totally masked the hops.

As stated, for hops I used all Galaxy.  A pathetic, completely overwhelmed bittering charge at 60 minutes left the beer with virtually no hop bite.  Something I crave in an IPA.  I believe I may have dabbled with a FWH addition as well.  The remaining 5oz or so were added sub-20 minutes, I believe 1oz each 5 min.  I finished off with an added 2oz dry-hop.  I recall thinking that this "hop busting" technique would give me a true sense of what the hop was about. Boy was I wrong.  All I got was this nasty, super sweet, mushroom tasting hop flavour.  Surprisingly, the brew had almost no aroma to speak of.  Maybe it was infected?  Maybe Galaxy hops taste of mushroom?  Either way, when I now hear "Galaxy hops", I shudder.

The yeast attenuated well, however it was into it's 7th or 8th re-pitch.  The process of reclaiming and washing after primary fermentations had rendered it some kind of super flocculator.  The yeast would floc out so quick, there was nearly none left to do the job of bottle conditioning.  The results left me with about 21L of flat mushroom beer.  The beer spent months in the bottle and never did get much better.

Lessons Learned
When brewing an IPA, keep it simple!  Less is more.  At least when it comes to the grain bill.  The hops need to shine.  This means a supporting malt back-bone with an assertive hop bitterness.  Don't skimp on the 60 minute addition, it should account for at least half (or more) of the recipes total IBU's.  The multi-award winning SSOS recipe uses an incredible 3oz Chinook bittering addition!   That's a lot!

The remaining IBU's should come in at the flavour charge.  Again, KISS.  One or two significant hop additions for flavour will be enough.  As stated in my post on hop schedules,  I feel a homebrewer's flame-out addition can and will contribute a fair amount of flavour.  Consider a single flavour addition at the traditional range of 10-20 min, with a supporting aroma/flavour addition at flame-out. 

Support the aroma with some additional dry-hopping and Bob's your uncle, you've got a solid IPA.

Techniques - Hop Schedules

I've always laughed at recipes with strange, hyper precise hop schedules.  I mean what's the difference between a 1 and a 2 minute hop addition?  I certainly don't have the pallet to tell the difference, I don't think many do.  Now I believe these are the creator's attempt at understanding hop aroma/flavour.  Is there a magical time for a Flavour additions? Aroma?  Not sure but at least Bittering is easy... but then there's First Wort Hopping... but wait, is that for bittering or flavour?

Not long ago, in the interest of simplicity and efficiency (perhaps a blog mantra), I decided to try and nail down a hop schedule which would utilize 4 additions (or less depending on the style) in all my recipes.  We'll start with an easy one, bittering.

(60 minutes)  Widely accepted as the ideal time for a bittering addition.  A 60 minute addition will achieve near maximum Alpha Acid isomerization from any hop, any longer the improvements are negligible.  I've used a 60 minute addition in every one of my batches, never fails to deliver.  I wasn't going to screw around with this one.  60 minute stays.

(30 minutes)   Old school flavour addition.  Pickup any brew book dating pre-2008, I'm pretty sure the majority of recipes contain at least some hops at 30 minutes.  Lately however, the 30 minute addition has fallen out of favour mainly because we are developing a better understanding of hop chemistry.  The science is well above my head, I won't pretend to know everything about the subject, the gist is, flavour compounds and hop oils are far too volatile to withstand 30 minutes of boiling.  Most agree a 30 minute addition can be used as more of a bittering addition and because this serves my purpose of simplifying the hop schedule, cut!

(20 - 10 minutes)  A balancing act.  We're into flavour territory.  The mythical "FWH flavour" complicates things, more on that later.  I imagine different hops will impart flavour differently.  Unfortunately, I don't believe there's any one size fits all.  Most texts I've read on the subject suggest one or more flavour additions at some point in this range.  I gather this time range is ideal for the flavour compounds to bond with the boiling wort, but not so long that the alpha acids fully isomerize. I suppose the easiest thing to do would be decide on a flavour profile for any given recipe, determine the amount of hops required to achieve that profile and divide the amount in three, adding hops at 20-15-10.  Damn, I've locked myself into a maximum 4 additions!  Alright, lets split the difference and call the flavour addition @15 minutes.

I've tried  FWH instead of a flavour addition and all I got was bitterness.  Some suggest only certain, low AA hops are appropriate of FWH.  Other suggest the FWH isn't a flavour addition at all and should be used in lieu of a bittering charge.  Bah!  I've leave the FWH QA testing to someone with more time and money. 15 min seems a simple route to desired flavour results.

(10 - 0 minutes)  Aroma addition, no one trick pony!  I'm sure aroma additions impart a fair amount of flavour (and bittering) as well.  I saw a chart once that suggested "maximum aroma at 7 minutes".  I can tell you that I brewed an ale with an aroma addition @ 7 minutes remaining in the boil, no dry-hopping, it was not very aromatic.  The most aromatic and flavorful beer I have produced thus far has been the Sleepy Time Porter in which I dumped 57g of Willamette hops at flame-out and dry-hopped with an additional 57g.  I don't know if the aroma was a result of the flame-out or dry-hop, but I suspect the secret to ultimate aroma and flavour lies somewhere in the combination of the two.

I was reading some analysis on the aforementioned chart and someone suggested it could be interpreted as 7 minutes total time, from addition to pitching temp.  This makes more sense.  With my wort chiller, this would mean a hop addition, after flame-out, while chilling (since it takes me about 20 minutes to hit pitching temps).  I believe this would be a homebrewer's equivalent to a commercial breweries "hop-back" or "whirlpool" addition.   

Using the noted chart as a point of reference,  assuming the 7 minute mark was intended to mean from addition to pitching temp,  my Sleepy Time's flame-out addition would have actually been in wort greater than pitching temperature for ~25 minutes.  Perhaps if I move this final hop addition to sometime during the chill, I would achieve even bigger hop aroma?  But then would I lose some of the flavour?  The flavour compounds wouldn't be able to react to the wort in the same way as during the boil.   There must be a sweet spot as far as temps go for maximum aroma extraction but I suspect this may be at the expense of flavour.

For my third hop addition, I think the flame-out or 0 min addition is a nice compromise.  Maximum flavour with some residual aroma.  The remaining aroma can be made up with dry-hopping, my fourth and final hop addition.

To summarize, appropriate to style, I would implement the following hop schedule:

1) Bittering @ 60
2) Flavour @ 15
3) Flavour/Aroma @ 0
4) Aroma @ Dry-hop

Techniques - Batch Sparging

The single stainless steel filter/braid in my low budget Mash/Lauter Tun (MLT) doesn't lend itself to Fly-sparging.  I've read this type of filter design will cause channeling and thus a poor extraction efficiency.  Solution, "Batch Sparging".

I first read about the method (and MLT design) in Denny Conn's Cheap 'n' Easy Batch Sparge Brewing article.  A super simple concept which fit well with my low tech brewery.  The idea, mash at desired thickness for desired length of time.  Drain mash tun completely.  Add a larger volume of hot water back into the MLT and rinse residual mash sugars by stirring and draining a second time.  Done.

Through trail and error, I've managed to fine-tune my Batch Sparging technique, it works very well for me.  Let me share...

I use my brew software to play around with mash thickness until I get a nice round water volume # to strike with. My mash thickness ranges between 1.2qt/lb and 1.35qt/lb.  Side note, this is strange, I formulate recipes in Metric but use Imperial for mash thickness and temperature readings.  I don't know why.  Anyways,  I strike and wait (mash) for 1hr.  Strike temps are dependent on a desired mash profile (Thin, Medium, Malty), again determined by my brewing software.

When the hour is up, I mash-out with a volume of hot (boiling) water equal to the grain absorption which occurred during the 1hr mash.  This mash-out volume is, you guessed it, determined by my brewing software.  The strike volume - grain absorption + mash-out volume = half my desired total volume into the boil kettle.

I drain around 2-3, sometimes 4-5 litres from the MLT and pour this back on top of the grain in the MLT.  This recirculation is called "Vorlaufing".  You're essentially setting or slightly compacting the grain bed inside the MTL so that it, as well as the stainless steel line, can filter the grain from sugary water now called "wort", as it exists the MLT.

When the recirculation becomes somewhat clear, the flow of wort is directed to collect in the boil kettle.  The MLT is drained completely, this process is called "Lautering".  The collected volume is called your "First Runnings".  Your first runnings should be roughly half your desired pre-boil volume.

With the drain valve shut (LOL! Made that mistake more than once!), the MLT is filled with sparge (rinse) water.  Since the grain bed is quite warm at this point, the sparge water doesn't need to be boiling.  I find around 185F results in a grain bed temp of 170'ish; perfect for dissolving remaining sugars into the water solution.  This quantity of sparge water is equal to roughly the second half of your total desired pre-boil volume.  The mash won't really absorb much more at this point.  Stir the mash well.  Recirculate (again) and drain the MLT (again).  This is called your "Second Runnings".

I have found that if I split my second runnings in two, adding the sparge water in two parts with another good stir and a third recirculation in between, my extraction efficiency jumps about 5%.  If you think this more bother than it's worth, add an extra handful or two of malt to your grain bill.

That's it!  Easy stuff.  Cheap, low tech and efficient... that's how I role.

You can watch Don complete the process: Here

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Techniques - Brew Software

I use Strange Brew for recipe design, mash calculations and inventory control:
http://strangebrew.ca/

For water chemistry and pH estimations, I use the EZ Water Calculator:
http://www.ezwatercalculator.com/

For accurately measuring and estimating bottle priming carbonation levels, Kaiser Carbonation Calculator:
http://braukaiser.com/documents/Kaiser_carbonation_calculator_metric.xls