Short & Heavy "Special" APA

WLP090 - Pitch +87hrs

Brewed 40 liters of APA yesterday.  I've been trying to use up stock and therefore I'm running light on malt; however, the freezer is well stocked with hops.  To borrow a term from British brewers, with respect to gravity or strength of ale, this is going to be a "Special" strength American Pale Ale.

Base was a mix of Domestic 2-row and Pils combined with a decent portion of Vienna.  Weyermann CaraFoam and some CaraMunich for colour and body.  The **CaraMunich was added late in the mash, during the mash-out, one of a few changes I made to my brew process.  The idea here is to introduce less variables to the mash and thus stabilize the pH resulting in a more predictable wort.

Rather than treating the mash with salts, I simply treated the entire volume of brewing liquor with Lactic Acid to a pH of ~ 5.50 as calculated with the sparge water acidification tool in Bru'n Water.  I then added Calcium Chloride and Calcium Sulfate to the boil for a desired flavour profile and calcium content.

Since I was brewing 40 liters, a decent water to grain ratio can quickly fill my 36qt MLT.  This meant that I was not able to add all my sparge water at once as I normally would with smaller batches. What I decided was to begin draining the second running, then when the water level had dropped slightly, add the remaining sparge water.  A cross between batch and fly sparging.  Didn't seem to impact my mash efficiency at all.

Beyond the tight working conditions of my MLT, the only other issues encountered were a slightly low temperature on the sparge water (got caught making dinner).  The mash and mash-out were a perfect though, 152/168F.  I had two minor boil overs, once before the first hop addition, the second just after the 20 minute addition.  These stops and starts reduced my anticipated boil off and dropped the *OG a point or two.  Finally, during the last 15 minutes of the boil, while recirculating boiling wort through my pump and lines to sanitize everything, I guess some thermo protection switch kicked in and the pump stopped working.  Once the wort had chilled considerably, the pump resumed function.  I feel the risk of infection is minimal since it did get about 10 minutes of contact time with boiling wort.

I've started using Yeastex, a nutrient.  Not sure if it does anything but I figured it's cheap insurance since I tend to re-pitch yeast often.  For this particular beer, I did a split batch, one half receiving 250ml of 3rd gen, BRY-97 - American West Coast Ale Yeast.  This was harvested from a Blonde Ale the previous day.  The other half received a fresh 1L starter of WLP090 -San Diego Super Yeast.   As of pitch +7.5hrs, the BRY-97 had a light krausen covering the surface.  No action on the WLP090.

Here's the recipe...

Short & Heavy Special APA

OG 1.047*/ IBU 40/ SRM 5/ 40L
BRY-97 West Coast Ale Yeast/WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast

42% Domestic 2-Row
33% Pilsner Malt
16% Vienna
5% CaraFoam
4% **CaraMunich I (38L)

15g (13 IBU) Columbus @ 60m
40/20g Centennial/Simcoe @ 20m
40/20g Simcoe/Amarillo, 1/2 @ 5m, 1/2 @ 1m

Dryhop (Keg)
***40/15/5g Centennial/Simcoe/Amarillo

***Amount specified is per keg/19L

Update - Pitch +20hrs

BRY-97 was quick out the gates, the krausen continues to slowly build.  WLP090 was slower off the get go but has exploded filling the entire 4L headspace with krausen.

Update - Pitch +32hrs

BRY-97 krausen now stands at ~2".  From what I've seen in the past, this is pretty much high krausen.  The San Diego Super WLP090 krausen has started to fall slightly.  Very quick!  Wort temperatures holding steady @ 20c

Update - Pitch +63hrs

Both krausens have fallen to a light layer covering the surface of each fermenter.

Update - Pitch +72hrs

Krausen on WLP090 has completely fallen, STC controller set to 22c.

Update - Pitch +87hrs

Sample pulled from each fermenter, BRY-97 @ 1.012, WLP090 @ 1.011.  WLP090 sample very clear already!

Update - Pitch +13 days

Move BRY-97 to ambient and WLP090 to the keg.  Added Dry hops to the WLP090.  Will DH @ ambient for 3 days before moving keg to serving fridge.

Update - Pitch +16 days

Moved WLP090 to the serving fridge.  Set pressure to 30psi.

SMaSH Series

Chinook/OiO SMaSH

After the 120L brew weekend, I've noted some discrepancies in my efficiency numbers, both to the kettle as well as the fermenter. To better dial in my system, a series of Single Malt and Single hop beers would be suitable.  The series will feature English hops and Maris Otter.  I have a fresh, unopened sack of MO and the following English hops at my disposal:

• Bramling Cross
• Challenger
• East Kent Goldings
• Stryian Goldings
• Target
• Northern Brewer

The idea will be to use the same amount of malt (4kg) to produce the same volume for consecutive brews.  Ensuring I measure out my water volumes accurately as well as follow the same mashing/sparging/boiling routine, the resulting gravity should be within a point from beer to beer.  I am mainly interested in the sum of all part, aka the "Brewhouse Efficiency"

LowTech Blonde Ale v4 - Inaugural Two Vessel Brew

Inaugural Run 

My first brew on the two vessel recirculating system.  Wasn't perfectly smooth, requires tuning but otherwise I'd deem it a success.  You can find more information on my trials and tribulations in the Brewery Update post.

LowTech Blonde Ale v4

OG 1.040/ IBU ~25/ SRM ~3/ ~23L

85.0% OiO Domestic 2-Row
10.0% Gambrinus Vienna
05.0% OiO Wheat Malt

10g of Centennial @ 60 minutes
10g of Centennial @ 30 minutes
10g of Cascade @ 10 minutes
10g of Cascade @ 0 minutes

WLP007 Slurry (Used 3x - 4th re-pitch)

Brewed June 9th

Mash @ 66c for 45 min before firing the HLT  raising temperatures to a 76c  mash-out.  Collected 30L pre-boil volume.  

Boiled for 70 minutes adding hops as scheduled above.  Whirlfoc at 1 min remaining in boil (lost track of time messing with my pump).  Gravity measured 1.040.  Chilled to ~20c.  Collected ~23L into the fermenter.  

Pitched 100ml of  WLP007 (from LowTech Pale Ale v4), this will be the yeast's 3rd re-pitch.

1/2 tsp Gypsum, 2  tsp Calcium Chloride, 1 tsp Epsom Salts, 80g Acid malt, added to mash for a pH of 5.50.  Final water numbers: 
Ca 74, Mg 14, Na 18, Cl 98, SO4  108

Update June 12th

Fermenter moved from cold room (~18c) to warmer room (21c).   Strong airlock activity.   Liquid crystal thermometer on the side of the pail reads 18c

Update June 18th

Tested 1.0137 (3.5°P) ~ 67% attenuation (likely due to the cold fermentation). 

Update June 26th

FG Measures 1.0131 (3.34°P), racked to keg.

Brewery Update - Coming Soon!

I've been brewing with a cooler MLT for a number of years.  I am on my third cooler, it's worse for wear and is in need of another replacement.  After BSB 2013, I was very intrigued by a 2 vessel setup which, by my calculations, I could put in play with very little capital costs.  Basically, I already have the 2nd vessel and would simply need to build a new mash manifold.

The technique is continuously recirculating, no sparge brewing.

Two vessels, one upper, one lower.

The upper is your MLT, the lower is you HLT and Boil Kettle.

• To brew, you would fill the lower HLT/BK with the entire amount of brewing water (liquor).
• I would fire a propane burner on this lower vessel to bring the water to strike temperature.
• While heating to strike temperature, I would recirculate the water via pump up to my MLT and then gravity feed the hot water back to the HLT.  This would serve to pre-heat the MLT.
• Once the water reaches strike temperature, the MLT gravity feed to shut off, a portion the hot water is pumped to the MLT to achieve the desired grist to water ratio.  Pump is shut off.
• Mash is full, water remains in the HLT.
• Mash is stirred.
• MLT and HLT valves are opened once more, pump goes on and we recirculate, drawing the entire volume of water through the mash over the course of the hour.
• Propane burner is fired on the HLT through-out the mash to maintain desired mash temperatures.
• At the end of the mash the HLT valve and pump is shut off and the MLT is allowed to drain completely.  We now have our pre-boil volume in the HTL (now BK).

Possible complications

1. Equalizing flow between the MLT and the HLT.  You want to maintain a level of water on top of the grist throughout the entire duration of the mash.
2. Regulating the propane burner flame to maintain mash temperatures throughout the entire mash.
3. Possibility of lower mash extraction efficiency

Possible benefits

1. Smaller brewery footprint
2. Eliminating cooler from the brewery
3. No sparge means a shorter brewday
4. No sparge is said to improve the quality of malt flavours
5. No chance of tannin extraction from over sparging
6. Mash pH stability

Update June 4th

I built my new manifold from CPVC and ported my 2nd vessel (MLT) which is the 36qt Turkey Fryer aluminum pot.  I also ported the lid to fit the return feed from my HLT (50L Keggle).

Update June 5th

New MLT and manifold tests completed successfully.  I'd like to give the new system a go this weekend.

Update June 9th


Before brewing, I adjusted my grain mill loosening the crush.  I'd estimate the mill gap is now .040 (previously 0.036).  It looks perfect to me.  New crush tested with malted barley, malted wheat and even malted rye, all seem to crack well.  Minimal husk shedding on the malted barley.

Began the brew by heating the HLT to 60c then started recirculating the hot water through the MLT to pre-heat.  Once temperatures hit 66c, I doughed in.   Almost immediately began recirculating the mash and remaining HLT water (forgetting to vorlauf) and continued to heat the HLT until the mashed temperatures stabilized @ 66c at which point the heat was shut off.   The mash recirculated for 45 minutes.  Three times I fired the HLT briefly (1-2 min), over low heat, to retain a mash temperature of 66c.   The MLT itself might benefit from some type of insulation  in the future.  After 45 min, the HLT was fired over medium heat (still recirculating) raising temperatures to 76c  for mash-out.  Collected 30L pre-boil volume.

Managing the flows of both the MLT and HLT proved to be challenging.  Once during the mash the fluid  dropped below the grain.  I corrected by shutting off the flow from the MLT and continued pumping from the HLT.  Next time I will run the pump wide open and manage flow exiting the MLT.   The good news is the new manifold and crush seem to be lautering very well!

In my brewing software I guessed the new system's brewhouse efficiency @ 70%, I wasn't far off @ 68% with a mash efficiency @ 70% (~26ppg).

I really like the temperature control over the mash.  In the future I may experiment with conducting a more traditional mash and waiting for starch conversion before beginning the re-circulation this may help to improve efficiency a touch.  I suspect the flow rates at which the mash and HLT exchange might also play a role in the systems efficiency. 

$3 Kettle Filter

I picked up a couple of grease splatter screens from my local dollar store, removed the frames and double folded the edges to form a pancake type shape with a small opening to pass the dip tube through.

I performed an over night soak and series of tests to confirm the material was in fact stainless steel, I am confident it is but you can never be to safe.

Here are some shots of the filter in action

As you might be able to see in the photos above, the orientation of my dip tube is down and  to the side.  I found that part way through transfer from boil kettle to fermenter, the filter became caked in hops and break material which greatly diminished flow.  I use my pump when transferring.  The pump never did lose prime but this process ended up taking near 1hr.  Way too long.  I found out near the end of the transfer that if I used my brew spoon and scraped off a portion of the filter, regular flow resumed, doh!

Moving forward, I have shortened the dip tube slightly, it can now sit upright which forces separation of the two screens.  I am hoping this makes better use of the filters surface area and delays the amount of time it takes for the flow to slow.

Update April 3rd

Last evening I observed what appears to be rust (iron oxide) beginning to form in areas at the edge and center of the kettle filter.  This means that either the material is not stainless steel, perhaps carbon steel, or the acidic environment of the wort was enough to remove the passive layer of chromium.  I disassembled the filter and gave it a good scrub with a nylon brush, baking soda and vinegar.  I will report back if the rust has returned.

Update April 5th 

Pretty much status quo.  Nothing had progressed.

Whirlpool Immersion Chiller

Just a pictorial of my latest brewery addition, a Jamil Zainasheff inspired whirlpool immersion chiller.

First, I started off with some virgin soft type copper tubing. 50ft, 1/2" OD.  I bent it up into shape.

Bottom bends are the most difficult

Test fitted to the new 50L Keggle

Next, I soldered some 1/2 ID copper pipe with a couple of 90 elbows and a 3/8" reducer to improve flow.  Note, in this picture I am using the pump and whirlpool attachment to rack from my boil kettle to carboy.

Add some 1/2" silicone tubing and here's the unit in action

The pump setup.  This is a Great Brew Eh pump.

A video of the whirlpool action

What's New!

I haven't been able to keep up on the Blog but that doesn't mean I haven't been brewing.  Check out the new  Brew Log tab to see what I've been up to.

In other news, I am now brewing on a slightly larger 50L Keggle.  I have built a new Jamil-style whirlpool wort chiller complete with a new 50ft 1/2" copper immersion chiller and Greatbrew Eh pump.  Life is good!

New Equipment!

Draft Lager coming soon to the Low Tech Brewery!

Grain Storage

I blow through my base malt at a good clip, I don't worry too much about it going soft or stale.  For the special malts, I've found my local baker is a fantastic source for free icing pails which happen to come in sizes perfect for 1/8 or quarter sack storage.

(My) Low Tech Brewery

Converted 48qt cooler
(article to come maybe?)
Basically a Coleman camping cooler with a stainless steel toilet supply line, some 7/16" vinyl tube and a picnic valve.

Pots 34L, 18L, 10L
Really you just need the 34L pot.  I use the smaller two for heating strike and sparge water.  The 34L  pot for my full volume boil.

Cast iron propane burner
Came with the 34L pot as part of a Turkey Fryer kit.

Corona grain (corn) mill
The cheapest grain mill out there!  Tons on eBay.  Requires lots of fine tuning but once set, provides a decent crush.  No stuck sparges yet.    

Plastic 29L primary w/ air-lock
Any food grade plastic pail will do.  Larger is better, head-space needed to accommodate krausen during primary stage of fermentation.

Glass 23L secondary w/ air-lock
Nice to have but not required for basic ales.  You can get away with a longer primary and then straight to bottle.  I use a secondary when dry-hopping or conditioning beer.

Auto-siphon w/ bottle filler
After struggling with a siphon once, I quickly bought an auto-siphon.  I believe this is only piece of brewing equipment that I actually bought new!  The bottle filler required if you choose to bottle condition your beers.  I can't afford kegging.

Bottle Tree w/ Ferrari Vinator
Thanks Kevin!  A really usefully, albeit unnecessary, tool when bottling.  The Vinator makes bottle sanitizing a dream.

Hydrometer w/ turkey baster
Determines Original gravity, Final Gravity (ie alcohol content).  The baster is to draw samples from the fermentation vessel.  Cheaper than a wine thief. 

Thermometer
Needed to monitor strike water, mash temps, mash-out and sparge temps.

Immersion wort chiller
25ft of flexible 3/8" copper refrigeration tubing.  Bends made by coiling tube around a paint can.  Stainless clamps, vinyl tubing and a garden hose connector complete the piece.  Needed to quickly cool the wort post-boil.

Calibrated measuring bucket
Very high-tech piece.  23L plastic bucket with a masking tape strip down the side.  Using a measuring cup, made a mark on the tape after each 2L addition.  I use this bucket to measure out strike and sparge water.  Also doubles as my bottling bucket.

Digital scale
Ok, I lied, I bought this one new (on sale) as well.  I use it to measure out grains and hops for my recipes.